After my recent experiences and discoveries with the loveable slush box we know as the AW55-50/51SN, I thought I would jot them all down for those either having similar issues but finding no joy, or those facing similar issues and wondering what to do. I searched MVS for a deeper explanation for this oft overlooked and somewhat complicated tool to help with big transmission issues but couldn’t find anything that really told just how amazing the change that VIDA and this procedure can be! Now… without further adieu…
Let me, before I start into what I did, explain what the difference between the two types of “calibrations” that the AW55-50SN can do. You have a Control Module Adaptation (CMA) and you have a Reset the Adaptation (RA).
The CMA is akin to writing new lines on a blank piece of paper. The TCM (Transmission Control Module) knows about where the lines should be and by going through a series of controlled shifts, it writes the lines that the trans will follow. When you do something big to the trans like a new/rebuilt Valve Body, new/rebuilt Linear Solenoids or even replace leaking internal gaskets, you should do a CMA since the “lines” will now be different to the TCM.
The RA is like a school text book where someone took notes in it. You can read the book, but off to the side, you get the answers the teacher really wants and you get an “A” in the class thanks to Bob, Class of ’62! The TCM is always learning and taking notes. Those notes are great for the current set up, but they need to be erased and start over when you do something simple like change the fluid. Resetting the learning back to a known set of good values.
Well, here it is, the Volvo 360c. It’s not going into production and you won’t be able to buy one. It’s Volvo’s template for how we’ll get around in a couple decades, that’s all. Unfortunately.
This will be remembered as an awkward first impression of what will be the standard in 2040 or so, like we look back on concept automobiles from the Cold War era, or Volvo’s 1990s EV concept car. That’s not to say Volvo shouldn’t have built or imagined the 360c, nor that it’s not going to be a generally correct predictor of future private transportation, because it is just that.
The 360c does in fact provide a good look at how we’ll move around and between cities. We at MVS believe all signs point to the future featuring cars that will look very similar to this Volvo concept. We think it’s a good move on the automotive chessboard, one that combines autonomy and electric power.
The basis of the 360c is a fully autonomous, fully electric car without a human driver. The concept capitalises on the freedom in design afforded by the absence of a steering wheel and a combustion engine, providing the ability to reimagine the traditional placement of passengers in rows of two or three.
The 360c presents four potential uses of autonomous driving vehicles – a sleeping environment, mobile office, living room and entertainment space – which all reimagine the way people travel. It also introduces a proposal for a global standard in how autonomous vehicles can safely communicate with all other road users. – https://www.volvocars.com/us/cars/concepts/360c
Drove home and smelled oil. Checked under the hood and there was oil everywhere. That sucked. The engine bay was pretty damn immaculate when I bought it. Now it’s covered in oil. Research says I need to change the PCV breather box. Looked into it and decided I don’t know if I have the time/skill to do it. Some people state that it’s a $500-800 job due to labor. Called the Volvo dealer near me and they quoted $1400. wtf. So now i’m trying to figure out if I should attempt to do this or ask my regular mechanic who isn’t too sure of Volvos. How difficult is this job and is there a guide somewhere? I changed oil recently to synthetic and I have a very slow drip that has developed around oil pan (i think or close by) and I think having a clogged PCV is the reasoning.
PCV Procedure on a 2.9
SuperHerman » I have not done the PCV on your car, but I did do it on a non-turbo 2004 S80 2.9 and on a 2004 XC90 T6 (plus on a few other 2.4 cars). They are pretty much the same. Nothing too difficult, just have to remove a few items. Approach the project like you are changing the intake manifold gasket – after this point everything is there. If I recall one of the FireBox bolts (lower pass side) is hard to get to and some remove additional pieces. I had no issue, just used a swivel and extension 1/4″. Most of the work is done with a 1/4″ ratchet, 10mm swivel, 10mm socket and various extensions – hose clamps are 7mm or single use. The oil pipe bolt is either 12mm or 13mm and I think the banjo is 17mm. These two are tricky as they are upside and not easy to see – so approach with a mirror – see what you have then remove. I warn you of cross threading now and later.
Summary of VIDA (Sorry for the format – but I am summarizing their steps and they are lumped together at times):
Disconnect battery, remove plastic charge pipe and hose to charge air cooler, remove intake air pipe for the air cleaner from above radiator connection.
Release fuel pressure and remove injector cover then fuel rail mounting screws then pull entire rail with injectors (put in plastic bag or cloth and flip aside – also vacuum area and/or blow area first then spray with WD40 or PB Blaster or what ever you have). At some point here you need to detach the fuel line from the nozzle pipe per VIDA, but I think I just flipped it up and kept it as a unit – you will have to see when you get there – I just don’t remember clearly.
Remove dipstick pipe mount on intake (I am pretty sure it is underneath the manifold – just follow pipe and you will see) – the next bolt is tricky – it is a banjo if I recall and it attaches a pipe to the intake – it is pretty close to the dipstick bolt. The hardest part is putting it back on – here if I recall I did it before I fully tightened the intake bolts so I had more wiggle room. Just make sure you start it by hand and do not cross thread! Tighten it up when you have the manifold fully installed so the hoses line up nicely.
Disconnect the throttle body connector and remove the charge pipe from the throttle body. How you attack this depends where your clamp is hiding. If I recall mine was pointing to your right from where you are standing – so drivers side – I ran a very long extension near the air filter area and I think a 7mm socket – it was a straight shot. On one car it was facing the radiator – here I loosened it and swung it around so I could approach it from the side. You may need a mirror and extra light to locate where the clamp is. 5) Remove the intake – remove top screws and the outer screws for the bottom – then loosen the rest of the bottom screws – at this point they need not come out and will hold the manifold. Once completed look to see what other hose is in the way and take care of those. Then lift the manifold off. If you are going to change the intake manifold gasket you will have to take off all the screws.
Basically – take off the snap on engine cover and remove the top plastic piping – I would add the air box so you know you have everything – plus you can pull much of the plastic and airbox out as one unit. Then disconnect the intercooler charge pipe that attaches to the radiator and runs to the throttle body. Next take off the two passenger side intake manifold bolts that are on the front passenger side corner (dipstick and that banjo bolt). Then you have to remove the fuel rail. Then the intake manifold.
At this point everything is right there in front of you and if I recall the fire box has two screws securing it to the block. You may have a couple of hose clamps on the PCV hoses.
On assembly make sure to clean the throttle body (look up proper technique) and clean up the intake manifold holes where the injectors go – then lightly oil them so the injectors go in smoothly and sand and grit doesn’t damage the seals.
When you are done there is a stubby hose/pipe that goes from the fire box to the block. When you pull this out you have to make sure the drain hole going into the block is clear. These get gunked up pretty good. Pull stuff out – do not push stuff in. Some people blow air into the port and listen for bubbles (assuming you still have oil in the pan). What I did was cleaned out as best as I could, drained the oil and left drain plug out with catch pan below and sprayed carb cleaner in there and then rinsed with gas. I tilted the car so that any fluid would go to the drain plug hole and out the car and not puddle in the oil pan. The object is to flush out any chunks you may have dislodged. I took my oil/gas mix and sent it to recycling. You will need some of the single use clamps for portions of the PCV system – order them – do not use hose clamps on anything you cannot see – you will regret it if you have a leak. Many of the sites have “suggestions” that tell you what the single use hose clamp is – I strongly urge you to buy them – it may add $10, but you will not have problems with leaks and the job will go quicker. You may have success reusing the originals – your choice your time and money. You can tighten these clamps with a wire cutter if you are careful and do not have the specialty crimp tool. Pay attention and take pictures and you will be fine. It may take you a day if you are cautious. If you do it for a living I would say two hours tops.
I think there may be a few videos out there on it, if not look up intake removal, alternator removal, air conditioner removal, radiator removal and you will see how to remove many of the parts. On the intercooler charge pipe that connects to the radiator – you may need to use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the plastic (be careful) so you can get it off and then again to get it on – a little PB Blaster type spray helps also.
Dax Raub stands among the two dozen or so cars in his shop, pointing out an outrageous race Subaru STi over here, and an outrageous late-model custom street Camaro over there. Above it all, literally, is aracing Volvo C30 on a lift, outrageous in a somehow quieter way, despite its past fame as a rarity in North America: an actual Volvo-supplied, Volvo-supported race car.
Maybe it’s the pedestrian paint scheme, or that it’s difficult to gauge its capability from down low that makes it seem less aggressive than the other cars. Whatever the case, I’m here for this car.
One of two 2011 C30 Volvos built for Touring Car racing by 3R for K-Pax in 2011. The engine, despite what’s suggested in this photo, is at its stock height, not lower.
Racing C30
Raub is the likable and serious owner and Chief Operating Officer of 3R Racing, a performance tuning and race shop in Englewood, Colorado. 3R is responsible for building the C30 and S60 cars and supporting race teams in the late 2000s and early 2010s.
When California-based K-Pax Racing moved from Porsche to Volvo in 2009, 3R Racing got the call to build and support K-Pax’s two Volvo S60s. Volvo racing was alive in North America.
Dax Raub stands among the millions of dollars worth of cars, tools and experience in the 3R shop.
Two years later, K-Pax decided to add the C30 to the already-great S60 team. The C30 in Raub’s shop is one of the two 2011 C30 Volvos built for the Touring Car class by 3R for K-Pax Racing during a mad, 60-day dash to get them prepped and tuned to run in the Pirelli World Challenge and in the US Touring Car Championship, also known by its acronym USTCC,“professional touring car racing made affordable”.
Volvo North America supplied 3R and K-Pax with the 2 new C30s only 60 days before the first race of the 2011 season.
“It was a last minute decision to race them but we took on the challenge. Four months, if not more, would have been a more realistic timeline,” Raub explains with a matter-of-fact tone I find virtuous.
The 300-hp, 3000-lbs-with-driver C30s 3R built had gutted interiors and heavily reworked engines and running gear. The only interior bit not pulled out was the dash.They ran in North American events in the 2011-2012, and 2015 seasons. In the 2015 season Stacey Racing resurrected and campaigned the cars in Pirelli World Challenge and local SCCA events. Stacey Racing hired one of the 3R guys to fly in and engineer for them that year.
Among many other custom modifications, the ducted brakes of the racing C30s were 3R fabricated parts. The hoses bring cool air in from the splitter.
The C30 cars put their power to the front wheels via a stock manual transmission and were supported by Volvo far more than the S60cars were because they were much closer to stock than the S60s were, and thus were well within Volvo’s ability to tune.
Volvo sent techs to Colorado to help tune the C30 cars for hp, torque and low turbo lag.
Of considerable interest to this author was that the C30s would start and run only if the key was in the ignition (!) — like any modern Volvo — because the engine management’s security feature was left untouched (key needed). Volvo required this of 3R because Volvo didn’t want its custom tuning work getting out into the wild.
While nothing is impossible to a determined hacker, the stock engine management security meant the custom AFR maps and other secrets employed by the Volvo tuning ninjas enjoyed the standard Volvo security protections while living on the ECM of the two racing C30 cars. It also meant the software tools Volvo gave to 3R were locked to the cars through the VINs.
The C30 cars’ headlights, taillights and turn signals are functional.
3R Racing supported the K-Pax S60 team for seven years, and during the concurrent S60/C30 seasons, would field a team of over a dozen drivers andtechs, two semi tractor-trailers and a large support van. Many members including Raub got their Class C license so they could drive the semis.
Racing S60
The 600-hp S60 Grand Touring (GT) class race cars, in contrast to the C30s, were pure race machines that shared nothing with a stock S60 of the era besides the engine block and exterior shape, a characteristic NASCAR “stock” cars are known for.
Randy Pobst Volvo 2012. Not an MVS photo.
According to Raub, the Volvo 2.4 inline-5 cylinder met its limit at around 600hp. At that point the head gasket would give up. (For the record, he prefers Audi’s inline-5 because he’s gotten those over the 600hp mark with fewer problems.)
Volvo created the carbon fiber shell to match the production car’s shape on their own dime, first in 2009 for its debut season, and a year later when that model crossed from the 2010 P2 to the 2011 P3 body style. Raub and a handful of 3R techs were flown to Gothenburg on Volvo’s dime to help shape the S60’s carbon fiber body in Volvo’s wind tunnel, an experience he said he enjoyed quite a bit.
These AWD S60s put their power through custom built sequential manual transmissions, and weighed roughly 3350 lbs with driver. Mahle built the engines and Weismann built the transmissions.
In 2010 driving legend Randy Pobst and teammate Andy Pilgrim, behind the wheel of the K-Pax S60 GT Class cars,helped Volvo claim its first World Challenge Manufacturers’ Championship.
At the end of 2013, new management within Volvo decided to pull out of supporting independent-team motorsports, and that was that for factory support for indie Volvo racing efforts in North America.
Racing C30 vs. S60 Statistics
C30
S60
Driven wheels
front
all
Horsepower
300
600
Transmission
stock manual
Weismann sequential manual
Weight (lbs, w/ driver)
3000
3350
Photos
3R Racing in Englewood, ColoradoRacing C30 wheel hub, rotor, caliper. Note the temp gauge sticker on the brake caliper.Racing C30 rear 3/4Racing C30 rear leftOne of two 2011 C30 Volvos built for Touring Car racing by 3R for K-Pax in 2011Racing C30 grilleBrake ducting and underside of splitterRacing C30 front left strut and rotorOne of two 2011 C30 Volvos – rear 3/4Racing C30 rollcage and seatRacing C30 rollcage and seatRacing C30 interior – dash, shifter and panelRacing C30 front fenderSplitter, grilleRacing C30 rear left suspension and wheelRacing C30 interiorRacing C30 engine undersideRacing C30 front quarterRear right suspension and wheelC30 undersideC30 interiorRacing C30 rear quarter
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When The C30 & S60 Went Racing
Recent Volvo history alert: I photographed one of the two racing C30s from K-Pax’s 2011-2012 campaigns: A Short History of Volvo Touring and GT Cars. Also includes an interview with Dax Raub of 3R Racing, who built and supported the cars, and who worked with Volvo extensively on tuning these C30s, and also the very-winning K-Pax S60s.
The New Volvo V60 Cross Country is Out!
Here’s Volvo’s latest release of a seemingly unending line of new models. Volvo’s renaissance volume dial goes up to 11.
Considering purchase of 2008 XC70
Awesome thread for anyone thinking about buying one of a 2008+ XC70.
A tools show off thread
oragex starts a brilliant topic on favorite tools: “Here’s my fav ratchets, both 3/8, a very small but sturdy Stanley and a Pittsburgh Pro extendable for added torque…”
GCP Genuine Classic Parts Volvo Original Parts (SE)
A great resource for 1990s and older Volvo model owners. You can find parts here that are unavailable even at a dealer. “Genuine Classic Parts ensures the supply of spare parts for older Volvo Cars”.
“I was 15 when I first drove my 1995 Volvo wagon. I am 37 today and still driving it. First car I ever drove.” – MVS Contributor wheelsup in this post
POTM
Huh?
~ ~ ~ This Amazon link helps MVS. It helps keep us on the Web by giving a small portion of what you spend on Amazon to MVS. It doesn’t cost you a penny. But you must use the link before you put something in your cart. THANKS.
Peeling fabric on your A-pillars? Here’s how to fix it by replacing the trim. MVS Contributor ogatrulle recently posted this beautiful DIY on repairing the inside A-pillars on your P2 Volvo:
V70 & XC-70 & V70XC 2001-2007
S60 2001-2009
S80 1999-2004
I recently replaced my peeling 06 V70 fabric A-pillar covers with plastic covers from earlier years. Identifying the correct parts was not straightforward to me (relatively new to Volvos), so here is a writeup to help the next person who wants to try it.
The P2 V70 and S60 from roughly 2001-2004 have interchangeable plastic A-pillar covers. Sometime around 2004, Volvo switched to fabric-covered covers which seem to start peeling along the forward edge as the glue fails. Others in this forum have reported success regluing, but I was hoping for a less labor- and care-intensive process.
The first order of business is to determine the color. Having VIDA helps here as the A-pillar cover part numbers are called out according to color code. Volvo has a 4-digit color code on the ID plate/sticker, which is often located either on top of the fender just inside the engine compartment or on the right side B-pillar. As with Volvo part numbers in general, there are typically multiple color codes that refer to the same color. Although there is some logic to the specific digits in the 4-digit code, it’s not as tidy as one might hope.
Plastic a-pillar trim above, cloth below
The sticker on my 2006 V70 had code A981. VIDA refers to this as “Oak/Arena,” but I have read that it might also be called “Taupe/Light Taupe” in non-US markets. VIDA indicates that V70/V70XC/XC70 color codes AX8X, BX8X, AA7C, DXXC, VOR3 all use the oak/arena interior color scheme for side panel and roof liner. I believe the corresponding S60 color codes for this color scheme are 9X8X, 9I7C, and 9X72, but am not completely certain.
I went to the local men’s mall and visited all of the S60 and V70 cars on the lot. Quite a few had the indicated color codes and their A-pillars matched my desired color. I think I paid around $20 each.
A word about how the covers are attached: the covers have two tabs at the very bottom that fit into corresponding slots at the outboard forward edge of the dash cover. There are a couple of roughly 7mm plastic alignment pins halfway up that fit into holes in the metal A-pillar but which do not hold it fast. Near the top of the A-pillar cover, there is a plastic clip that can expand a few inches, which holds fast to both the A-pillar and the cover at either end of the clip. Above that is a metal clip that holds the top of the cover fast to the A-pillar.
The next consideration is the type of plastic clip that holds the covers to the A-pillar near the top. There seem to be at least three variations, but I have not seen the first type. The second and third types are shown in the photos below.
The first type of upper plastic clip has a drawing in VIDA that looks like two ends connected by a single flexible strap.
The second and third types have two ends connected by two folded plastic straps. The longer folded strap is to be oriented downward when installed. The only difference between these two types is that the mating hole in the cover is a different size. The plastic covers appear to have a small hole and use Windshield Pillar Trim Clip part 8684846. My 06 original fabric cover had a larger hole so I had to order new clips.
If you can’t open the door from inside, check “Child Lock” thingy first. Happened to my right rear door: cable came off INNER door handle.
Same issue in P80 (Volvo 850, S70 etc.).Since this is an easy fix, I did all 4 doors with zipties and I have have tool and technique down.
It was only 10 min per subsequent door. Chances are the plastic clip holding the door cable is cracked and this allows the cable to detach.
The good news is: this is easy fix, about 15 minutes max.
When prying the trim piece, pry gently to detach it so it moves a bit toward you. There are 3 tabs that click in. Don’t break them.
Just gently pry it toward you, then up.
Then Torx 25 screws x2.
Pry around the door trim using upholstery tool wrapped with cloth.
* There are 9 plastic clips.
* Electrical connector(s): d/c it.
Now study the design where the cable is attached. Use your common sense.
* I drilled 5/32″ holes for ziptie to wrap around the door cable.
* Just drill near the base of the side plastic partitions as shown, near the base, this way it is more solid.
Don’t drill the hole near you, go for the base of the partition.
Yikes. This looks bad for TomTom, and ok for Volvo, which is likely to pick up Google to fill its navigation needs.
Dutch navigation firm TomTom said on Tuesday it had lost a contract with automaker Volvo.
The company said the contract to provide location and navigation services to Volvo, which was announced in 2016, had been ended before it was due to go into force in 2019.
That fed into concerns of critics who said a deal Google made last month with Renault, another TomTom customer, meant the company risked being relegated to third place in its main market, with lower margins.
ING analysts said in a trading note that they believe the Swedish carmaker had switched to Google, rather than the current leading player in built-in mapping systems, HERE.
So you need a new windshield and your insurance says you have to take the brand their giving you. But wait. There’s got to be an array of brands and quality, right? Right. The lower quality the windshield glass brand, the more likely it is to be wavy, especially when you look at it from the side from inside the car. Also, it’ll let in more UV and pit easier. If you thought windshield glass brand was a simple topic, well, read on.
So which windshield glass brand?
PPG or Pilkington? Which isn’t wavy? Which works with the Volvo rain sensor? Which is more resistant to pitting and cracking? Which has UV blocking?
MVS Contributor Brian faces a tough question, and gets good responses from the Volvo forum.
Brian walks us through his decision, and why Safelight and 3M were not considered:
A modest/out of view crack from a rock hit a year ago on my factory windscreen decided to to start growing long and ugly (and probably illegal) a couple weeks back.
Sought out 2 independent local installers: 1 is a referral through an acquaintance who works in used car/auction business, 2 is ‘glowing feedback’ on google/yelp etc. and listed as a certified installer on Pilkington’s web site.
Installer 1 quoted with PPG glass for $205 (Aaron Auto Glass, Chicago)
Installer 2 will install Pilkington for $300-even (Franks Auto Glass, Chicago).
Factory glass comes from Europe on cars assembled in Europe. On mine it is from Splintex-Italy with a Volvo logo above it. Glass from that manufacturer would now be tagged “AGC”. Needless to say we can’t get our hands on that there here in the states unless it’s used glass off a salvage car. I’ve seen varying references to ‘dealer glass’ aka, branded with the Volvo logo above the actual manufacturer name, sold as replacement glass through Volvo NA, can come from one of several suppliers (including both of these I believe) depending on model/year.
PPG/PGW on the other hand, although they don’t advertise different grades of replacement glass, are at least willing to state (from a legal standpoint) that their replacement glass matches or exceeds original equipment quality with regards to safety and optical quality. A basic claim Pk stops short of saying. I cannot find one instance were vehicle owners who had PPG glass installed came back later to say they weren’t happy.
CNET Likes the new XC60
CNET » “Volvo is one of the top brands in the industry when it comes to cabin comfort, quality, fit and finish. The XC60, inside and out, shows top-notch build quality.” CNET reviews the 2019 XC60.
Adding Parking Sensors to a 2006 V70 R
MVS Forums member pdr1966sc asks what it takes to retrofit factory parking sensors to his V70 R. Contributor mrbrian200 » “Possible yes. Practical? Probably not.”
New User Came to the Right Place
Juniah1 » “Wow, thanks for the replies guys. I guess I did come to the right place! In regards to why I bought the aftermarket coils, I assumed that could solve the misfire and it did…” OBDII —> VIDA
Volvo Has Turned its Image Around
Forget studies and 100-page white papers. Check out the comments on this Car & Driver 2019 S60 review. The great majority are positive, and many are simply overflowing with praise for the new S60 and Volvo’s direction, which started with the new XC90 in 2014.
New Axle Stuck in Transmission
MVS Contributor bmdubya1198 » “I should have known this wasn’t going to be easy…” bmdubya1198 takes us through his axle nightmare, step by step. Ladies and gentlemen, be wary of aftermarket axles.
Leaky Oil Drain Bolt?
Are you having trouble with oil drips and leaks from the drain? Factory recommended #1 solution is to use a crush washer if you haven’t got one on there already. If it’s still leaking, here are some inexpensive solutions.
P2 vs. P3
Two years ago mecheng asked » “I’m looking at getting a V70, and I noticed the P3 (2008+) doesn’t get much love compared to P2. What is the reason?” There were several good posts about the particulars of the two generations of Volvos. Now I’ve updated this P2 vs. P3 thread with the same question, only two years later: are you likely to move into P3 Volvos? Join the forum if you’re not already joined and add your thoughts.
QOTM zwieback » I sold my 2002 V70 – it was a good car, bought it when my girls were toddlers and they both learned to drive on it. I’m a bit sad, it was a good car, never gave me any trouble and in the last few years I did all the work myself so it was hard to let go.
POTM
Michael J in Florida is lucky enough to own and drive this 850.
~ ~ ~
This Amazon link helps MVS. It helps keep us on the Web by giving a small portion of what you spend on Amazon to MVS. It doesn’t cost you a penny. But you must use the link before you put something in your cart. THANKS.
Michael Jingle is a happy man. And why wouldn’t he be? He drives this beautiful M56-swapped 1997 850 that he painted and built himself.
He put it together after his first Mexico Blue (in Porsche-speak, Pageant Blue in MG-speak) 850 was sadly rear-ended and totaled at a red-light. He owned the previous blue 850 for 5 years.
Evidence that you can have a nice car for only $1200 and a little help from State Farm. Lots of blood sweat and tears in this one.
Standard issue 1997 850 T-5, original gray on charcoal interior.173,XXX Miles, 3 owners, originally a New Hampshire car, was brought to Tampa, FL 8 months ago and I purchased it shortly after for $1200.
I haven’t ever seen a bigger smile This photo currently graces the MVS Facebook page.
Michael built this 850 in 3.5 months which in “crunch mode” with his upcoming move to Orlando for school.
Obvious things done:
Blue paint (1980 MG Car Corporation “Pageant Blue“)
It’s the Black Friday/Cyber Monday time of the year, which also harbors a strange and unproven correlation with turkey and football. During this time, no corner of retail is exempt from the clutches — no pun intended — of online sales and lower prices. Not even Volvo parts!
We know that it’s traditional to run a “Black Friday” sale, but we also know that many people are traveling around those holidays and you need your Volvo in top shape. That’s why we started our holiday sales early; so that you can get the parts you need prior to the mad shipping rush of Black Friday and Cyber Monday.
Some of our best discounts are available now for a limited time on the following brands: Genuine Volvo, KONI Shocks, and Powerflex Bushings.
eEuroparts has a pretty cool new program that launched less than a month ago.
eEuroparts for Life is our commitment to our customers to earn your business and keep you coming back to purchase parts for the lifetime of your ownership of a European car.
eEuroparts for Life is a concept that includes a loyalty program, a limited lifetime warranty, and commitment to service designed to earn your business and then keep you as a customer for the lifetime of your European vehicle. Any items marked as eEuroparts for Life will be warranted to the original purchaser for the duration of your ownership. If a part fails, the original purchaser is able to return that part at any time for replacement.
Sign up for the loyalty program and start enjoying a savings on orders over $100.
If you can’t see the product images and links, turn your ad blocker off. Some of these might expire between today and tomorrow, or they might fill their quota at the price they’re listed.
Chemical Guys CWS_402_16 Mr. Pink Super Suds Car Wash Soap and Shampoo (16 oz). I have this, it’s good stuff.
Car Vacuum, BOOGIIO 12V 120W Car Vacuum Cleaner High Power with Stronger Suction, Potable Handheld Auto Vacuum Cleaner with 16.4ft Power Cord. I bought this just now.
Mroinge MBC020 12V/6V 2A Fully Automatic Waterproof Battery Charger/Maintainer for Normal Lead Acid, Sealed, Leisure, AGM, Gel,Deep-cycle or 12V-Lithium(LiFePO4) Batteries
Neiko 00206A 1/2 Inch Drive Premium Breaker Bar, 24″ Length | Cr-V Steel
AmazonBasics 4 Piece Heavy Duty Car Floor Mat, Black
Camco FasTen 4×2 Leveling Block For Dual Tires, Interlocking Design Allows Stacking To Desired Height, Includes Secure T-Handle Carrying System, Brown (Pack of 10)
Dash Cam Both 1080P FHD Front and Rear Dual Lens in Car Camera Recorder Crosstour External GPS HDR Both 170°Wide Angel Motion Detection G-Sensor Loop Recording
This photo currently graces the 
